S&W SD9VE 4" 9mm Stainless 16+1 Rd - $299.99 w/code "FEB40"

The gods honest truth is I'm glad. You should have a gun that runs great out of the box, that was sort of my point. I literally got pissed at S&W because think about it, how many times would send any gun back to any manufacturer for service? I thought four times was excessive and it still didn't run right. When they told me to send it back a fifth time I insisted on a new gun. They said we will fix it at which point I said screw it. I did buy it brand new and it was on it's way back after the first range trip.

I'm not an unreasonable person but then Special Ed as we called him started trolling me and the fun began. It became a troll war with a grade-schooler so yeah guns kind of took a back seat. Back on track I've got a M&P on it's way so S&W is getting another chance. I doubt the caliber had anything to do with it, I think the grey frame reissues frame was way out of spec. I honestly don't know but if some BS goes down I would rather the PD take a sub $300 M&P then one of my Berettas. They were twice as much. My point is a gun has to be reliable to be used for self defense. MY SD9 wasn't and that's a gross understatement.

Now I wait for Special Ed, Twinkle or TacticalToilet to flame this post. Then the fun will continue.

I think you and your several aliases are gayer than AIDS. A complete 180 from Badass you troll queer.

Some people thought the Yugo was a good deal @ $3,990 as well ;)

You are about 500 rounds away from the end of life of your pistol. Read the reviews or watch the videos, 3000 rounds are about all these guns are made for. You get what you pay for and these are not made to last.

Were them two that failed shotgun shells?

First. It’s an excellent budget weapon. Even though I paid $300 about a year ago.

And Hickock45 shot it for what?Half an hour?That is like a popular Nascar driver taking a car out for a 30 minute drive and giving it their seal of approval.I would rather ask someone who actually owns the car and has owned it for a few months to a year and has driven it more than 10-15 miles.

Hickock also gave gun control his seal of approval, so that one isn't worth much anymore.

Mine works fine, but good luck with your whole glock-tier memetic tribalism thing.

Absolutely true! These guns are really hit or miss. If you get a lemon like I did then you realize that S&W really does not give a damn about their low end guns or even their high end guns. Smith and Wesson may have an awesome "written" warranty but in the end I bought a gun that was a sick joke.

These guns leave the factory without any QC checks at all, S&Ws CS acts like you are bothering them when you call them and while some of these guns MIGHT actually work, I personally think that the ones that are reviewed are tweaked before they are sent out.

I have a pretty large safe full of handguns, from $200 Taurus's to $3000 custom 1911s. I also have rifles and shotguns but that's not important. If I buy a gun brand new regardless of the price or brand I expect it to work. Occasionally you will get one that needs to go back and I have never had any gun that had to go back more out of the box except for this one. After 4 trips back home, a scratched slide during repair and more problems each time this was not even a gun that you throw in the console and forget about.

This "gun" was all show and no go and should have been just replaced but S&W wasn't having it. I talked to some people pretty high up the ladder for a $300 POS and believe me the whole experience has left me with a pretty bitter feeling about S&W.

They used to have a few service centers across the USA and I never sent a gun that needed service to Mass. I strictly sent my S&W guns that needed service to LSG in Texas BUT S&W Closed All USA Warranty Stations 12/15/2016. Frank Smith owner/gunsmith at LSG always treated you right and fixed the problem and kept you informed of your repair. Now when you send it to S&W HQ the
"gunsmiths" don't even bother to read the note you are supposed to include and I think just for fun will put gouges and scratches on your gun, this is pretty well documented on YouTube.

As for a "range gun" as I remember it there was so much slop between the slide and frame that accuracy suffered when it wasn't jamming or dropping magazines. If it ever ran right it would be fun just to see if you get it accurate but I'm pretty sure that after one of the trips back S&W had switched my slide and barrel with some other one that was on the "gunsmiths" bench. He probably had 50 of these sitting there needing work. When I bought the gun the slide and frame were tight but like I wrote below S&W had the gun for longer then I did.

This will definitely be my LAST new S&W until they sell the company again. I love how people say "I love my M&P 2.0, it's great after I did the Apex trigger mod." $500 for a gun that has such a lousy gritty trigger that it NEEDS to be replaced. Why would you buy one knowing that you don't like the trigger?

I suggest you take a good look at a Ruger Security-9 for under $300. IMO it's a better "low end" gun that is probably better then anything that S&W is cranking out. Is the Ruger a HK-USP9? No but they both actually shoot. S&W not so much, that's why Glocks are so popular, at least they shoot. New Smith and Wesson's are garbage and their CS sucks. They are selling a name and not many quality products. Their service dept. is atrocious.

Are there any instances you can show that making a trigger pull lighter will land you in jail?

Surely diabetic neuropathy and carpal tunnel from computer work would be valid excuses for changing the trigger, springs, etc. assuming they even notice it.

Very true. Saw a gun lawyer video recommending you keep your carry gun stock. Not only internally but cosmetically as well. No punisher or dickbutt or don't tread on me crap or crazy paint jobs. I have some fun stuff but my glock is stock save sights and slide plate and that's just because I wanted them steel.

I agree it’s a piece of excrement, but it’s better than a Taurus for God’s sake. Mine worked fine from factory, I upgraded the recoil spring and guide rod with one for a Glock 19, Gen 1-3, with a 20 pound spring. I also upgraded the trigger later and it was ok, I would not recommend replacing the rest of the springs, I did and went back to using the factory springs (I did keep in the gun the Glock 19 Gen 3 recoil spring and guide rod). Another thing I did was to polish every metal part that rubbed agains plastic or metal to remove the gritty feeling in the trigger and in my opinion if I had to do it all over again, I would only have done the polishing job.

I’ll ship you one if you ship me a 1911 from the Philippines

They won't even ship to some place in the US. That is a negative on shipping to PHL.

Check out eBay.

Replace the recoil spring assembly with one all metal designed to work in a Glock 19 Gen 1,2 or 3 (do not use Glock 19 Gen 4 or 5 recoil assembly, it will not work), and select the 20 lbs spring, that will cost you around $20.00 search eBay and Galloway. Learn how to remove the gun internals and polish only all the metal parts that move and that have contact with other metal parts or plastic parts, that will remove all the gritty feeling off the trigger (do not sand or polish plastic parts, DO NOT GRIND OR SAND METAL PARTS).
Metal parts to polish:
1. The whole striker, including the the striker release surface (leave the firing pin tip alone).
2. The trigger bar on all sides where it will rub against plastic or metal.
3. The sear, polish it to a mirror shine, do not sand anything.
4. The firing ping safety plunger and the cavity where it sits.
Polish (ONLY) all those parts and you might be so happy that you might not need to buy the Apex spring or trigger kit.
When it comes time to put that trigger assembly back into the gun, you will need to make yourself a slave pin with a wooden stick (BBQ Bamboo Skewers for Shish Kabob) or something similar to cut a small section to hold the whole trigger assembly assembled to be able to put it into the gun, then take the trigger pin and insert it and push the stick out as you push the trigger pin into place, if you don’t use a slave pin, you’ll never be able to put that gun back together, just my two cents. Good luck and have fun.

I have one I put an Apex trigger and stainless steel guide rod in, along with a different recoil spring. It's a good shooting pistol now. The investment in mods was minimal, maybe 50 bucks total.

Yes they have a standard 8 lbs trigger for safety, you can buy an upgraded trigger for around 30 bucks. These are clone from a clock design without the trigger and guide rod with a third of the price. I own three of them and the function great. I agree out of the box the trigger suck ass but with a cheap minor monification they are an awsome pistol on a budget. You can also get a stainless guide Rod for around 15 bucks.

Most of the experts here don’t even own one. Mine rocks with the factory trigger.