Description
AR15 80% LOWER RECEIVER (CERRO FORGE) - SAFETY ENGRAVING OPTION - LIGHT BLEM
Don't forget to select 1 of the 28 different safety markings from the drop down menu. The safety engraving reference chart can be seen under the "CHART A" tab above.
Forged by Cerro, this 80 percent lower is not an FFL item and is classified by the ATF as a non-firearm. Made from 7075 T6 heat-treated aluminum, this lower features flared and broached magwells and is “finished in white”, tumbled and ready to be bead blasted before anodizing or cerakoting. All that’s required is machining of the trigger and the safety well before it’s a fully functional, mil-spec lower receiver. Click on the Magwell and Safety tabs to see some of the available engravings to choose from on your lower receiver.
Designed to work perfectly with our selection of upper receivers and other AR parts and build to withstand rugged use, this lower receiver allows you to fully customize your AR15 build easily and quickly. Review the lower’s specifications and shop today for the best pricing around.
These RTB 80% Lowers now come with a tension screw hole drilled and threaded for a 1/4"x28 set screw (set screw sold separately)
80% machined (just needs trigger and safety well machined)
7075 aluminum
T6 heat treated
Magwells are flared and broached
Cerro Forge (Key hole may or may not be machined off)
MPN#: 80RAW-1-BLEM3
Coupons for Right To Bear store
Comments (18)
Does anyone know if the holes get drilled out at Cerro or does someone else do it?
Sorry about your luck but thanks for the heads up. I was just about to pull the trigger on this deal. (Pun intended)
I don't see a way to add the safety engraving option? I see the chart but no option to add it.
Capt. Hammer, Use ur ball peen Hammer with a punch and engrave it. 8-)) 8-))
Minimal bit per pass, shop vacuum each time, let the bit cool. I use a cutting oil, too. Really comes out well this way, just have lots of patience.
Looks like a good buy. Minimum buy quantity is 3 three though.
I'd probably need the first 2 for practice anyway.
Run the router as fast as it can go, move slow and in minimal increments, and consider fewer pilot holes. It's easier than you think, but there are some tricks.
First and last runs are importants. Everything in between - hardly doubt you can do any damage even if you try. It is just easier to do when you do it slow - less kickback from the tool. I would worry more about getting tired and doing something stupid like picking a wrong bit when drilling a hole. Also as it takes like 2-3 hours to do one lower and a lot of cleaning work after this, just buy good 80% lowers. Do not buy blems unless you are building an arsenal of 20 the same rifles. If you spend 2-3 hours of your time, do it for something really nice.
I've become a stickler for side wall finish, so all runs are important. That and bad kickbacks lead to broken bits. I'd love to give one of these a shot in a proper mill.
Thank you very much for the advice...
It’s a bit of an investment, but seriously consider using the 5D Tactical jig. I’ve used mine for 10 lowers altogether, and it runs beautifully every time.
Unfortunately, they were all lost in a tragic boating accident...
I agree - been using the 5D Pro jig with great results. It does take 2.5 - 3 hours on average if you work methodically, taking off as little material as possible in each pass.
I'd also like to say that I have yet to do an "80% lower" that wasn't really a 74.3% lower: for example, every safety detente had to be drilled out to seat properly, and there are tricks to doing that correctly.
I also have a beef with the manufacturers who suggest using WD-40 as a machine tool lubricant. It is nasty, sticky stuff. Get a good water-based machining lubricant and apply it frequently from a spray bottle. It creates cleaner cuts, smaller chips, and helps hold the edge of your tool much longer.
And thank you to everyone who admitted knowing the guy with the faulty boat. I had to put all my lowers in a smelter to make a high quality aluminum hull for a friend whose boat apparently suffered repeated damage due to submerged rocks.
I highly recommend using viper's venom cutting oil keeps things cool and lubricated ...
Dang tragic boating accidents they ruin everything
I don't know why guns are so attracted to boats, can't ever seem to get the life preserver on them.
This wins comment of the day, for sure.
I've bought 5 cerro forge lowers (all had the keyhole marking) from different retailers last month and every single one has been out of spec at the front pivot and rear takedown pin holes. None of my aero uppers (standard and m4e1) will allow both pins in at the same time. If the front is in - the rear won't go in, if the rear is in -the front won't go in. Same result with my psa uppers and my ruger. Tried different pins and no go. Maybe I'm Bad Luck Jones, maybe they're putting out garbage lately. Just be prepared for a possible paperweight.